Welcome to Hokkaido, the northernmost island of Japan, renowned for its natural beauty, delicious food, and distinct seasons. Whether you’re soaking in a hot spring after a hike through volcanic landscapes or sampling Hokkaido’s rich dairy and seafood, this island has a unique charm that sets it apart from the rest of Japan. For this trip, we focused on some of Hokkaido’s best destinations: Sapporo, Noboribetsu, Furano & Biei, and Otaru.
TLDR 🫣
Hokkaido: Japan's northernmost island is celebrated for its stunning natural beauty, delicious cuisine, and distinct seasons, making it a must-visit destination with highlights including Sapporo, Noboribetsu, Furano & Biei, and Otaru.
Itinerary:
- Day 1: Arrival in Sapporo.
- Day 2: Rent a car and drive from Sapporo to Noboritbetsu for Hell's Valley (onsens), stopping by Lake Toya on the way.
- Day 3: Say Goodbye to your yukatas and onsens at Noboribetsu Grand Hotel. We're heading back to Sapporo in the evening.
- Day 4: Day Trip to Furano & Biei (lavender fields).
- Day 5: Day trip to Otaru (seafood).
- Day 6: Full Day in Sapporo (more Hokkaido ice cream)
- Day 7: Goodbye Hokkaido!
Pro Tips:
- Flights to Hokkaido can be pricey; book early and consider using Skyscanner or trip.com for the best deals.
- Renting a car is essential for exploring Hokkaido due to distance, with rentals available from DiscoverCars; be sure to obtain an International Drivers Permit beforehand.
Top Awards:
- Best experiences included wearing a yukata while soaking in a traditional onsen in Hell Valley and enjoying Sapporo beer at the Sapporo Beer Museum.
- Best food featured kaisendon from 札幌海鮮丼専門店 すしどんぶり, unforgettable cheesecake from LeTao, and the creamiest Hokkaido milk ice cream from The Soft Cream House, showcasing the magic of Hokkaido cream!
If you’re planning a longer trip, check out our 31-day itinerary, How to Spend 1 Month in Japan, for a high-level overview of the cities we explored, where we stayed, and what we loved in each place.
But for now, let’s dive into how to spend one full week in Hokkaido for first-timers. (Heads up: some links are affiliate links, meaning we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase!)
AWARDS
Best Experiences: Wearing a yukata and soaking in a traditional Japanese onsen in Hell Valley, drinking Sapporo beer from the Sapporo Beer Museum
Best Eats: Kaisendon from a seafood restaurant without an English name, 札幌海鮮丼専門店 すしどんぶり (Google Maps), an unforgettable cheesecake from LeTao (Google Maps), and the creamiest Hokkaido milk ice cream from The Soft Cream House (Google Maps) —there’s something magical about Hokkaido cream!
Best “Bang for Your Buck” Hotel: Travelodge Sapporo Susukino (Pro Tip: Book this hotel early as prices go up significantly the closer you are to the date. It only cost us $45 CAD for a weekday night).
Best “Splurge” Hotel for the Onsen: Noboribetsu Grand Hotel. Reserve the buffet dinner, breakfast, and traditional ryokan room for a more authentic experience!
Best e-SIM: Airalo (You can use our referral code “CELINA4205” to save $4.50 CAD OFF your first purchase).
HOW TO GET IN AND OUT OF HOKKAIDO
– Hiroshima to Sapporo: Sapporo New Chitose is the cheapest airport on this northern island. Despite that, this was our priciest internal flight in Japan, costing ~$120 CAD per person (including checked luggage) and took about 2 hours.
– Sapporo to Tokyo: We went back to the Sapporo New Chitose Airport. It cost ~$87 CAD per person (including checked luggage) and took about 1.5 hours, departing early in the morning. Our advice: try to book flights at times that don’t mess with your sleep, because dragging yourself out of bed for a super early flight is never fun.
To book flights, we liked using skyscanner.ca to find the cheapest flights because it compared several companies. Once we found the flight we liked, we’d click it to see which company was selling the cheapest ticket. Usually, it was trip.com. We liked booking with Trip because they offer loyalty incentives. Over the past 12 months, we’ve made more than 8 bookings with them, and we’ve reached Diamond Tier status, which gives us extra discounts and two passes for free VIP lounge access at the airport.
HOW TO GET AROUND HOKKAIDO
To properly explore Hokkaido, you’ll need a rental car. Trust us, the distances between places are just too great to rely solely on public transportation. Depending on where your hotel is located (but assuming it’ll be in Sapporo), there are plenty of car rental places in the area. We’d recommend shopping around – check out websites that compare several companies like DiscoverCars for the cheapest price. We rented our car for 4.5 days from Budget for ~$328 CAD. We only filled up on gas twice, costing us ~$20 CAD each time. Pro Tip: Get your International Drivers Permit (IDP) from your original country before arriving to Japan. You will not be able to rent a car without one.
ITINERARY
Day 1: Sapporo
Day 2: Noboribetsu
Day 3: Noboribetsu
Day 4: Furano &I Biei
Day 5: Otaru
Day 6: Sapporo
Day 7: Fly to your next destination
Day 1: Arrival in Sapporo
After landing in Sapporo, we made our first stop, and it wasn’t very far —ice cream at Kinotoya in the airport! Did you know this airport is one of the best places to try Hokkaido icecream? One scoop of milk ice cream and one scoop of matcha ice cream later, we were already dreaming up our ice cream challenge: could we eat one every day while in Hokkaido? Spoiler alert: we did. The total for two ice creams and two tarts came up to ~11 CAD.
We took a bus into Sapporo City (~$22 CAD for two of us), checked into our hotel, and began exploring. We were here in early July 2024 and it was strangely windy for a summer day. We ended up unpacking our puffy coats to wear on our walk through the city – can you believe it.. PuFfY cOaTs?!
Our first stop was Tanukikoji Shopping Street, a long, covered arcade with endless shops, restaurants, and entertainment. It’s the perfect place to stretch your legs after a flight, and we did just that! We browsed through some quirky shops and resisted the urge to buy more snacks, knowing dinner (or ice cream) was just around the corner.
We took a short walk to Sapporo Clock Tower, an iconic stop if you’re in Sapporo, and we grabbed a quick photo from the outside. The entry fee was only ¥200 per person (around $2 CAD), but we opted not to go inside since it was already late. A quick stroll through Odori Park followed – a massive park that runs through the middle of Sapporo. The park was buzzing with people, and the Sapporo TV Tower was the focal point of it all.
Around 6:00 PM, we needed a pick-me-up, so we headed to MARUMI COFFEE STAND for some coffee ice cream. Let me tell you, if you like your coffee strong, this is the place for you. The ice cream was rich, creamy, and packed a serious caffeine punch for around ~$5 CAD. Yes, I am fully aware that as of right now, the blog is mostly filled with ice cream photos.
After all that walking, we were finally hungry. And since we were in Hokkaido, we knew we had to try Genghis Khan, a traditional lamb dish that’s grilled right in front of you. We ended up at a small izakaya, where we shared a sizzling platter of Genghis Khan. If you’ve never had it, it’s juicy, tender lamb, grilled with veggies and served with a sweet soy-based dipping sauce. The flavor was incredible, and we polished off the plate in no time.
Of course, being in Hokkaido, Ryan couldn’t resist adding some fresh seafood to the order – because, why not? He got some sashimi and an uni kaisendon. Hokkaido is known for their fresh milk products (that’s why we’ve been basically inhaling ice cream all day) and also, their seafood! “Kaisendon” typically features a bed of sushi rice topped with a variety of raw fish and seafood, often including delicacies like tuna, salmon, shrimp, and scallops. In an uni kaisendon, the star ingredient is sea urchin, which has a creamy texture and a rich, briny flavour. Ryan loves seafood, but I’m meh about it, so I added karaage (Japanese fried chicken) on the side. Between the Genghis Khan and the seafood, we were in food heaven. But the bill? Not so heavenly. The meal cost us around $64 CAD, which was a bit more than we expected to pay for the portion sizes, but hey, we knew it would be pricier up north!
By the time we finished dinner, we were absolutely stuffed and exhausted. We waddled back to our hotel, mentally preparing for the next day’s adventures and, of course, more ice cream.
Day 2: Making our way from Sapporo to Noboritbetsu
After breakfast, we picked up our rental car, a compact but cute little orange thing that coincidentally shared the same license plate number as the last four digits of my phone number back home. We took some time to adjust the car settings, and then hit the road for our first big adventure outside Sapporo! Today, we’re heading to Noboribetsu, the onsen (hot spring) capital of Hokkaido.
The car rental cost us ~$328 CAD for the rest of the week, and gave us the freedom to explore at our own pace. Driving through Hokkaido’s countryside was a treat – the roads were smooth, and the views were stunning, especially as we passed by fields and distant mountains.
But because we couldn’t check in to our Noboribetsu hotel until 3:00pm, our first stop was at Lake Hill Farm, a cozy spot known for its fresh dairy products. For lunch, we shared a delicious wood-fired pizza and a few pastries before indulging in two creamy cones of ice cream, all for about ~ $25 CAD. This place was absolutely gorgeous, especially because the weather was cool and sunny today. There were plenty of lavender flowers and we saw cows grazing in the distance!
After lunch, we drove to Lake Toya, a picturesque caldera lake surrounded by mountains. We took a break to walk along the shore, finding a few interesting things to pose with.
Finally, it was time to check into the Noboribetsu Grand Hotel and enjoy a traditional onsen. We decided to splurge on this one night – reserving buffet dinner and breakfast, as well as a ryokan room to fully experience Japan hospitality. It was our first time staying in a ryokan, and we were pretty excited. The staff welcomed us warmly and guided us to our tatami-mat room. Inside, we found yukatas (traditional robes) waiting for us to wear, and we were encouraged to relax and enjoy the hotel’s famous onsen baths.
Before diving into the onsen experience, we wanted to make sure we knew what we were doing. So, like all clueless travellers, we turned to YouTube tutorials on onsen etiquette. Turns out, there’s quite a bit to learn! From fully scrubbing down in the shower area before entering the baths to making sure not to dip your face towel into the water, there are rules for everything. And in case you didn’t know, a traditional onsen is a public bath. A separate area for men and women, but nonetheless, you’re naked with strangers. Commando. In your birthday suit. Fully exposed. I was not ready, but it was now or never.
I stepped into the female section: a large, serene bathhouse with a grand, almost ancient feel – the kind that transports you to another time. Roman stone statues were in the center of the room, surrounded by multiple smaller pools, with steam rising from the mineral-rich water. It felt luxurious, yet peaceful, with only the sound of the water gently flowing. The onsen experience was pure magic. But of course, no photos allowed!
Meanwhile, Ryan was in a different section, experiencing something far more intense: the Devil Sauna. The 100 degree celsius sauna was themed around the local volcanic activity and hot springs. I didn’t know it yet, but his section was grander. It featured steamy waterfalls and outdoor views in addition to multiple saunas, a cold plunge tank, and roman stone statues. Ryan said he could only make it 30 seconds in the Devil Sauna until he had to come out. In the words of the great Nelly, “it’s gettin’ hot in here”. After our separate experiences, we met up at the hotel restaurant for dinner, both feeling completely relaxed (and a little dehydrated from the heat!) to compare notes about each of our onsens.
Dinner that night was an all-you-can-eat buffet, and it was nothing short of incredible. The star of the show was the wagyu beef, which literally melted in our mouths – tender, juicy, and perfectly cooked. The buffet also offered a wide array of Japanese and Western dishes, including fresh sushi, tempura, salads, and decadent desserts. Definitely worth adding this dinner to your reservation!
After dinner, we returned to our room to relax in our yukatas, feeling completely rejuvenated after the onsen and full from the feast. We spent the rest of the evening planning the next day’s adventure before finally drifting off to sleep on our traditional futon bedding, eager for what tomorrow would bring.
Day 3: Goodbye Noboritbetsu. We’re heading back to Sapporo
We started the day bright and early around 6:00 AM to experience the onsen once more. At 2:00 AM every night, staff swap the onsen areas so each gender can try the other onsen. This time, I found myself in what Ryan experienced yesterday afternoon: the waterfalls, misty outdoor bath area, and cold plunge tanks were even more magical than he described. The Devil Sauna though… I only lasted 15 seconds before I had to come out. There were also wooden chairs to lay on. I almost fell asleep – this time, not concerned about the nakedness.
After about an hour of relaxation, we met up for breakfast at the hotel. We both agreed that this area of the onsen was the best part of the hotel and we’d go back to try the Devil Sauna again even though it was hot as hell.
Unfortunately, it was time to check out as we only booked for one night. We packed up and made our way to Jigokudani, also known as Hell Valley. On the walk there, we encountered many hellish statues. Can’t say we expected this…
The landscape was eerie but mesmerizing, with steaming vents, boiling hot springs, and bubbling geysers. Walking along the trails felt like stepping into another world, with the sulfuric steam rising into the cool morning air. It reminded us of Rotorua in New Zealand. The entire hike was free and took about 90 minutes. We ended up taking off our shoes and enjoying a nice foot soak at a small, public onsen. We met some super cool Californians – a few boys that recently graduated from university and a couple of school principals. We chatted for so long and it was wonderful hearing about their travels.
After the hike, we loaded up on 711 snacks and hopped back into the car for the drive back to Sapporo, admiring the water and mountain views along the way. We arrived in the evening and checked into our Airbnb for the next 4 nights (time for laundry!). For dinner, we headed to Sumire Nakanoshima, a popular ramen spot in Sapporo known for its rich miso broth. It cost about ~$24 CAD for two large bowls of ramen.
Day 4: A Day Trip to Furano & Biei
We hit the road again for a day trip to the scenic towns of Furano and Biei, famous for their colorful flower fields, particularly lavender. The 2.5-hour drive was peaceful, with sweeping views of the countryside. Our first stop was Farm Tomita, where we indulged in lavender and melon-flavored ice cream. The lavender fields were past their prime but still smelled wonderful. The ice cream was ¥450 (around $4.50 CAD) each, and it was refreshing under the summer sun.
Then, we bought the most expensive cantaloupe slice of our lives—¥450 (about $4 .50 CAD). Hokkaido melons are a renowned specialty of Japan’s northern island. While it was delicious, we both agreed it wasn’t exactly life-changing, but at least we tried Hokkaido melon. Our rating: 3/5.
In addition to visiting Farm Tomita’s main field, we stopped by their Lavender East area, strictly known for only growing lavender flowers. They also have a small foot onsen at the top of their hill. Pro Tip: If you’re short on time, don’t bother coming to this section. The lavenders are more sparse and the field is much, much smaller! Update: We just looked on Google Maps, and Lavender East appears to be temporarily closed!
Next, we visited the Shirogane Blue Pond, famous for its otherworldly bright blue water. The vibrant color seemed almost unreal, as if the pond was glowing. Nearby, the Shirahige Waterfall cascaded down – its clear water contrasting beautifully with the surrounding greenery. Both spots were free to visit, but we did have to pay about ~$5 CAD for parking at the blue pond. Pro Tip: If driving, we recommend arriving here before 7:00 PM (May – Oct) as the parking lot closes! The pond is open 24/7, but the parking lot is not – this is not advertised or stated anywhere on Google.
We debated staying the night in the Furano-Biei area but decided to drive back to Sapporo. It was either going to be head back to Sapporo tonight or tomorrow morning, but the Airbnb/hotel was cheaper in Sapporo. For dinner, we treated ourselves to conveyor belt sushi at Kaiten Sushi Toriton. It cost about ~$37 CAD for the both of us. Pro Tip: If you’re as entertained by the conveyor belt part of this sushi experience, do not come within the last 30 minutes of closing like we did. There is nothing left on the conveyor belt, so it’s essentially just a regular order from an ipad restaurant 🙁
Day 5: Day trip to Otaru
Unlike the other destinations, Otaru is the one place outside of Sapporo where you can easily get by without a car. In fact, there’s a public bus that runs from Sapporo to Otaru, taking only about 1-1.5 hours. Unfortunately, we didn’t realize this when we booked our car rental. By the time we found out, it was too late to return the car a day early and change the reservation without losing money, so we ended up driving there ourselves. It took about 1 hour to get there by car. The cheapest parking lot that we found in Otaru was a Norte park (No 3782), costing 600 yen (~$6 CAD) for the day (12 hours).
Otaru felt like stepping into a postcard. The town’s famous canal, lined with charming old warehouses, was incredibly picturesque. We strolled along the Otaru Canal, taking in the serene views.
For lunch, we splurged a bit and headed to Otaru Ezoya, known for its ultra-fresh seafood. We ordered kaisendon (seafood bowls) with a variety of fresh seafood, including more uni for Ryan. He took the uni off my snow crab as I’m not a huge uni fan but Ryan loves it. Our meal cost about $48 CAD, and it was worth every penny. See how happy Ryan is?
Afterwards, we stopped for coffee at Kitaichi Hall, a historic cafe with a pianist playing Disney and Harry Potter tunes while we sipped our drinks. The hall is dimly lit by hundreds of oil lamps that cast a warm, flickering glow across the space – very Harry Pottery. Two ice cream floats cost about $11 CAD.
From there, we continued to walk around the charming town and found ourselves at The Otaru Music Box Museum, located nearby the Steam Clock Tower that was modelled after the one we have in Vancouver, Canada. It was a charming and nostalgic stop, filled with intricately crafted music boxes of all shapes and sizes – some even in the shape of sushi! The museum, housed in a historic stone building dating back to 1912, offers a magical atmosphere where you can watch artisans create these delicate pieces. As you walk through the museum, you’ll hear soft melodies playing from the music boxes, each with its own unique tune. You can even customize your own music box as a special keepsake – they can get pretty pricey, but it’s a great place to pick up a memorable, handcrafted souvenir. The last picture below shows a large, antique music box, but the artwork they chose to display behind it was a little too creepy for my taste.
We also did some window shopping. Sakaimachi Street is lined with shops selling Otaru’s famous hand-blown glassware, which has been a local craft for over a century. As you stroll down the cobblestone street, you’ll find beautifully crafted glass ornaments, tableware, and jewelry. Many shops offer glass-blowing demonstrations, allowing you to watch artisans shape molten glass into delicate creations. Some even offer workshops where you can try your hand at creating your own glass item to take home. The street itself has a quaint, old-world charm, with its historical buildings and cozy cafes, making it perfect for a leisurely afternoon of window shopping and exploration.
But the real highlight of the day was LeTao’s melon cheesecake. They were giving out samples at the front of the store and from the moment we felt that creamy, rich, soft texture, we were in love. We vowed to buy a whole cake next time, but for now, we settled for a slice, which cost $4 CAD. Pictured below is just their regular cheesecake. Pro Tip: Get at least a slice – it will change your life!
At the end of the day, we also made a quick drive to the Hiyoriyama Lighthouse, which offers panoramic views of the Sea of Japan and is one of Otaru’s most scenic spots. Unfortunately for us, just as we arrived, it started pouring rain, cutting our visit short. It was clear that this was our cue to head back to the Airbnb and call it a night.
Since it was quite late by the time we got back, we opted for a restaurant that Ryan refers to as “Cheap Eats” spots—something I personally love! We ended up at Matsuya for dinner, where I had a hearty bowl of beef with a generous serving of green onions and Ryan got (can you guess?) more seafood (eel). The food was simple but delicious, and the best part? The total cost for both of us was just $15 CAD!
Day 6: Sapporo and Around!
Today was our last full day in Sapporo and time to return the car. There was just a few more places I wanted to visit and since we had the car, we thought, why not use of it and drive to places where the buses don’t go often. From the photos I came across, it looked like a serene and spiritual place, and we couldn’t miss it.
Moai Statue: Tucked away in a hillside park, this life-sized replica of Easter Island’s iconic Moai statues seemed like an odd but intriguing attraction in Sapporo. The sight of these mysterious stone figures staring out into the distance gave the place a surreal and almost mystical vibe. Parking here cost around $4 CAD, and it was well worth it for the unique photo ops and peaceful atmosphere.
Hill of the Buddha: Just a walk away, we arrived at the Hill of the Buddha, a breathtaking and tranquil spot designed by renowned architect Tadao Ando. The massive stone Buddha sits nestled within a circular lavender field, giving the impression of it rising from the earth. Walking through the tunnel leading to the Buddha, you feel an overwhelming sense of peace and spirituality. Entry for two people cost just $5 CAD, and this serene experience was one of the highlights of our day.
Sapporo Fushimi Inari Shrine: Our next stop was the Sapporo Fushimi Inari Shrine, a much quieter counterpart to the famous one in Kyoto. With its bright red torii gates lined up along a walking path, it gave us a glimpse of traditional Japanese culture without the massive crowds.
For lunch, we headed to Haruchiya, where we indulged in gyozas, a bowl of salt ramen and another of black garlic miso ramen (~$21 CAD). The black garlic miso was absolutely delicious—definitely a 10/10. It was rich and flavourful, easily on par with the Kamikura ramen we had in Nara. Pro Tip: The restaurant is quite small and there is very limited parking, so if you can park elsewhere and walk to here, it’ll be quicker than waiting for a spot to open up.
After our satisfying meal, we returned the rental car around 3:00 PM and walked over to our final stop —the Sapporo Beer Museum. The self-guided tour was both fun and informative, covering the history of Sapporo Beer and its impact on the city.
At the end of the tour, we treated ourselves to a flight of three beers for just $8.50 CAD. We spent some time laughing at the silly photos we took (am I a lightweight?) and then headed back to Sapporo city on foot, about a 20-minute walk.
What we didn’t mention earlier was Ryan had spotted a kaisendon restaurant on our very first day in Sapporo (but we didn’t have time to eat there), and ever since then, Ryan has thought about going back to this place daily. I remember his face when I said, “I don’t know if we’ll have a chance to eat there”. It was pure sadness, like in the movie, Inside Out. So, we couldn’t leave Sapporo without making his dream come true. After the Sapporo Beer Museum, we stopped by the kaisendon restaurant, 札幌海鮮丼専門店 すしどんぶり for one last seafood feast. Ryan was in seafood heaven again, and this was probably the only restaurant we’ve been to where we didn’t need to order a meal for each of us. Since I’m not a seafood lover, they kindly offered me complimentary soup while Ryan savoured every bite of his kaisendon (~$30 CAD). See how happy he is again?
As for me, I was actually still full from our ramen lunch and our Sapporo beers. But there’s one thing I can never pass up—ice cream! This time, I got my fix at a small shop called The Soft Cream House (literally, that’s its name), and let me tell you, it was incredible. Their Cremia soft serve (~$5 CAD) is some of the creamiest ice cream I’ve ever had, and it was the perfect sweet ending to our last full day in Sapporo. Dare I say…. it was the best ice cream we had in all of Japan? To top it all off, I ended up grabbing the most delicious pudding I’ve ever had from the local konbini (convenient store). Double win for me!
Day 7: Goodbye Hokkaido!
Our final day in Hokkaido was mostly spent traveling to Tokyo. We took the same bus (~$22 CAD for two people) back to Sapporo New Chitose Airport again, and although we were tempted to grab ice cream for breakfast, the shops weren’t open that early (we’d end up getting it in Tokyo). With that, we said our goodbyes to Hokkaido, feeling both relaxed and fulfilled after an incredible week.
TOTAL COST for One Week in Hokkaido (Approximate, CAD for 2 people):
Accommodations for 6 nights: $431
Activities: $14
Food: $380
Car Rental and Gas: $368
Bus to and from Airport: $44
TOTAL: $1237 (Roughly $88 per person, per day)
FINAL THOUGHTS
Hokkaido blew us away with its stunning landscapes, incredible food, and unique experiences like the onsen and traditional ryokan. It’s different than the other cities we visited in Japan – it felt more authentic and outdoorsy. We left feeling relaxed, satisfied, and maybe a little heavier from all the ice cream too! If you want to see how we spent 31 days in Japan, check out our blog, How to Spend 1 Month in Japan. Let us know if you have questions in the comments below!
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